Saturday, December 29, 2012

In a land where men have no fire:

 


In case you’re still with us here at Guinea Ginge (us being Kelsey, Arnold the mouse and various monstrous caterpillars lurking around in dark corners), here’s a little update for you!

Last week, my neighbor Dawan, came to Ditinn to pay me a visit.  (He’s only 26km away… that’s child’s play in Guinea!)  It was a wonderful surprise to peep outside my classroom and see a fellow volunteer smiling back at me.  We took a trip to the Ditinn waterfall, which I am happy to report, is nearly tame enough to frolic about in!  Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure…





Everyone, meet Dawan. 
Hi, Dawan!





And we all know this crazy ginger...







There is many a river to be fjorded here,
even in the dry season.

 


And now, here's a video for you...



 


We fancy, huh?



Along our route, Dawan and I discussed many a topic, including but not limited to Guinean history, U.S. vs. Guinean teaching methods, future plans, the natures of romance and marriage, and livestock.  Which brings me to my next point: 

If ever there was created an official scale of stupidity based on animal behavior, the basest insult you could ever sling upon another human being would be to compare them to a sheep.


      I’ve seen goats eat plastic bags. 


         I’ve seen cows stare down oncoming semi-trucks. 


            I’ve seen moths fly straight into open flames repeatedly. 


Let me assure you, sheep take the fattest slice of cake that there is to be had.  (You know, it’s one of those pretty plastic and Velcro kinds of cake that you used to play with as a kid, but at least you knew better than to eat something with a Fisher_Price label on it?)   

A car legitimately ran over a sheep the other day (it was unharmed, I assure you) because the animal plain old didn’t feel the urge to move.  This evening I had my moment of epiphany, however.  As I was cooking dinner (bean, lentil, potato, patate, okra and peanut soup!  Sounds questionable.  Tastes delicious.), I heard a noise in my yard.  Now, as stated before, I had a fence recently erected to keep animals and unruly school kids from traipsing into my house.  As you can imagine, I was a little anxious to see just what in the blazes was making the racket.  I poked my head out the window and saw a sheep there, just… staring off into space.  My gate was shut and there were no gaping holes to speak of in the fence, so, although puzzled, I decided to let the situation develop on its own.  A few hours passed by, and the sheep didn’t budge, except to stick its head through a crack in the fence.  Once night fell, I decided to help it out.  I opened the gate and made some shooing noises, and what did the sheep do?  It looked at me and plunked its head right through the fence again. 

So I chased it away from the hole. 

It ran a couple circles around the fire pit, then headed towards the gate. 

“Yes!”  I thought.  “Victory is at hand.” 

But instead of going through the huge opening directly in front of it, the sheep thought it better to ram its noggin right back into the crack in the fence.  Now, faced with a waggling sheep posterior and a herd of bleating livestock gathering to witness this spectacle, what’s a girl to do but laugh?  This whole process repeated itself for a few minutes, but happily, after a tense stare-off, the sheep turned around and (accidentally, I’m certain) made its way through the doorway to be reunited with its fellow peanut-brained family members.


Speaking of brains…

Mine is practically burstin with Pular.  Aliou has turned out to be a super resourceful tutor, and I’m having a wonderful time employing (read: embarrassing myself in) the language around Ditinn.  Why, the other day, I was walking down the path from school to the center of town, when I found my path blocked by a sheepling (A ewe?  Sheepling sounds better…).  I tried going around it, but saw that it was, well, drooling uncontrollably.  Not a good sign in sheepdom, I gather.  A tantie (older lady) passed by and greeted me in French with a “Bonjour, Aicha! Ca va?”  She then turned to the sheepling and said “Eh!  Mbaali.  A nowni buy!!” which means, “Sh**, you’re one sick sheep!!”  Which I understood!  IN PULAR!



So, good news: I’m improving little by little. 

Bad news: I have no idea if there’s a vet around these parts.  Poor sheepling.



This not so neatly segues into my next topic: PULAR blunders.



I’ve been trying to acquire some quips to use in the big cities when taxi-moto drivers make crude remarks to us volunteers.  So far I can say “What do you want?” and “You lookin’ at me?”  While useful, they’re not exactly what you’d call zingers.

So I asked my friend, Juliette for some help.  She said she had the hardest time trying to master the phrase “Are you blind??”, meant to be used if someone on a moto/taxi cuts you (or your taxi) off, or runs over your foot, or smooshes your pile of vegetables/fruit/bread/fish/sunglasses/flip flops on the ground.  It translates to “You have no eyes?!”

So for a couple months, Juliette was sassing right back at the motorists, saying “A maraa yiitee?!” where it was deserved.  She was confused by their reaction, which always seemed to involve patting their shirt/pants pockets, then shaking their heads “no!”

Finally someone kindly informed Juliette that the word for eyes is “giitee”, and that “yiitee” means fire.  She’d been unwittingly asking haphazard motorists for a light all this time, yelling  


 
“Have you no fire??”






It’s way too easy to mix these things up.



You better watch out...

 


Ladles ring, are you list’ning?
Against marmites, with sauces glist’ning.
A beautiful sight, we’re happy alright,
Basking in a Fouta Wonderland.

     In the morning, you feel like a snowman,
     With your breath a’whisping through the air.
     Then by noon you think to yourself, “No, ma’am!”
     This Porto’s lost it, it’s hotter than he- (you-know-where)!

Later on,
We’ll perspire,
As we cook
Rice on the fire.
We’ll face unafraid 
The end of the day,
There's tons of candles in this Fouta Wonderland.


 



MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!



Christmas in Labe!


While it’s strange being away from all of you back home, I want to assure you that Christmas is turning into a bonafide festive time here in Guinea.  My friend, Sarah is visiting from the Basse-Cote, Adrienne has come all the way from Haute Guinea, and a bunch of others have convened in Labé to celebrate together.


Here are some things I’m thankful for this year:

  1. My health (*knock on wood*) has been very good since arriving at Ditinn.  I continue to be an adventurous eater, but with more control over my normal intake of food, I’ve had far fewer GI woes to contend with.

* Interesting fact: In Pular, the word for diarrhea literally translates to “the runs.”  Aliou tells me this is because it has you running to the bathroom constantly.  I think he was being polite and wanted to spare me the graphic details…  It’s amazing what things are understood universally, though, isn’t it?



  1. Bonding with my students and fellow teachers.  Perhaps at this point they think of me not only as that whacked-out white lady, but as someone they can talk to and laugh with.  For whatever reason, people have been very patient and open with me.  It’s been nice to move past the perfunctory “Hi, how are you?  My name is Aicha, what’s yours?” conversations.

  1. I’ve moved from my fortress on the hill to a quieter and more secluded spot near the center of Ditinn.  I’m with a wonderful family who jokes with me, teaches me useful Pular phrases so I can haggle with the market vendors who give me the “Porto Price” (generally quite a bit higher than the local “Ditinnois Price”), and even teach me how to cook from time to time.

It’s heavenly.


  1. I’m getting a puppy :)  I will post pictures for you soon.


  1. Increased stamina!  I biked to Bodié to visit Stephanie the other week.  It’s 32 km on an unpaved, up and down road, and I did it in 90 minutes exactly!

  1. Friends.  Both volunteers, my Guinean neighbors, and you.  I’m not exaggerating when I say that I feel blessed to know the people that I do.  You have made this ginger a better person, and I hope that I can pass along your many kindnesses and pieces of wisdom in the future.


Here’s wishing you many happy thoughts, useful/AWESOME gifts, and an all-around holly-jolly Christmas and Happy New Year!

Much love,
K